Egypt
CAIRO / GIZA
You likely will go to Cairo and Giza because of none other than the Great Pyramids. Note: Cairo and Giza are both extremely dirty and hectic – the traffic is insane! Since there are so many hecklers, we recommend hiring a private guide (trust us, you don’t want to be on those massive tour buses) to view some of the sites.
In one day, you can visit the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx Complex, and the Saqqara Pyramid Complex (which are actually older than the great pyramids!). If you have one day, this is our absolute top itinerary. If you have more time, you can head to the Egyptian History Museum (tons of great artifacts if you are into that), the Islamic Quarter (make sure your clothing covers your knees and you have a scarf for your head if you plan on entering mosques), Coptic Cairo (the Christian side of Cairo), and Al Suez (a busy market shopping street. You can also hire a private guide to drive around to these sites instead of walking. You can take tuktuks and taxis around Cairo – just make sure you have cash and small bills…you can also negotiate before getting in the vehicle.
There are also many tours and guides offering camel rides – especially in the pyramids complex. We opted for a private sunset tour through Viator and thought it was much nicer! If you do go in the pyramid complex don’t pay more than $10!
Places to Stay
Marriot Mena: This property is absolutely splurge-worthy, and actually the only property in the Pyramid Complex. The breakfast views and pool are insane, and the food here is safe to eat. But note, depending on if it’s busy season or not, you could pay anywhere fro $300-$1,000 a night – and extra for your meals.
Hotel Eileen: If staying in Old Cairo rather than Giza, this hotel is so charming and with a great location (and a fantastic cost!). We actually stayed one night here to explore Old Cairo, and one night at Mena to be closer to the pyramids – it was a great balance.
Places to Eat
Be very careful to not eat anything fresh in Cairo (unless from a trusted hotel, like Marriot) that could have been rinsed with sink water. You will get sick! Opt for cooked foods. We did enjoy a more authentic experience at Koshary El Tahrir and Oldish Cafe in Cairo. We also heard good things about Pier 88 and Le Pacha which are on old boats on the Nile, but more tourist spots.
General notes on Egypt
We’re not big “hire guides” or “tour” people – but it’s necessary in Egypt. It’s a great way to see the sites while learning, and help prevent people from coming up to you to sell you items as much. We used private guides on Viator, but if you’d like specific recommendations reach out to us on Instagram or ask Elizabeth!
As far as flights are concerned, be prepared to change plans, be put with a different airline, and even not be assigned to the seat you bought. Make sure you always check your seat on your ticket when checking in, and know that most flights are late – almost all of ours left an hour late…so don’t have quick connection times, and don’t plan anything too soon within your arrival!
If you are a student, bring your student ID or have a picture. You can usually get tickets half price!
And finally, Egypt can unfortunately be very scammy. Always negotiate when buying goods or getting taxis, and always have cash on you – including USD! It’s much stronger there and the locals will accept it.
LUXOR
Many people only spend a day in Luxor as a drop off or starting point for a Nile River cruise. We spent three days here and could have spent more! Compared to crazy Cairo, we enjoyed the slower pace and relaxing.
You’ll want to do a full day tour exploring East Bank (Luxor and Karnack Temples, plus the alley of the sphinxes), and West Bank (Valley of the Kings and Queens) – but if you had more time you could split these tours to one per day which could allow you more time to explore the Valley of the Queens and additional tombs. We were blown away! We totally recommend paying extra to see Seti’s Tomb. It’s the largest and so well preserved. This in our opinion is better than King Tut’s, unless you want to see his mummy.
A hot air balloon ride at sunrise is also an absolute must. It’s beautiful and you go over Hatshepsut’s temple. We also did a sunset felucca sail on the nile (no motors) and absolutely loved it. Note: Egypt is an Arabic country and many places do not sell alcohol – across the country you can ask taxis to take you to Drinkees and can get a great price on booze to bring to your hotel (they’ll open wine for you) or your felucca tour!
Places to Stay
Djorff Palace: Stay at this hotel – an ABSOLUTE 5 star experience for an amazing price! (Around $75 a night) It was on the west bank of the Cairo which was so peaceful, and included a made to order breakfast, an amazing new menu for lunch and dinner everyday (all safe to eat, it is half owned by a woman from the UK), and a free boat transport to the east side from sun up to sun down – which made getting around for tours and exploring so much easier! There’s less than 20 rooms here and its a true boutique experience with a lovely pool overlooking the Nile.
Places to Eat
We fell in love with the food at Djorff so didn’t eat out too much, but did enjoy Al Shabay Lane (go before sunset for great views from their rooftop) and many locals recommended Nubien House.
Nile Cruises
We did not go on a river cruise as we did not have the time, but they range from 3 nights / 4 days and on. They rotate days that they start from either Aswan or Luxor, so make sure you take this rotating schedule into account when planning where to start. You’ll stop by many temples and tombs on the way, and we recommend hiring private guides for your day tours rather than going with a massive group with the boat. We also suggest finding the smallest boats ever – some of them are massive and look like cruises and an intimate experience would likely be preferred!
SHARM EL SHEIKH
Like many towns on the Red Sea, Sharm El Sheikh is pretty commercialized and resorty, but there’s an awesome thing it’s got going for it: the scuba diving!! We spent 5 days diving here and the reefs on the Red Sea are like any other….if you’ve been wanting to get certified or go for your Advanced certs, we highly recommend Emperor Diving – the staff was incredible. Shoot them an email and they’ll get back to you quickly! Be aware (certified divers): many centers in Sharm make you go on the house reef in Naama Bay for your first dive as the Red Sea is saltier and current heavy – they want to make sure your weight and skills are ok! They will also rotate days between Ras Mohammad and Tiran – so, three days minimum would be optimal for diving, not forgetting to give yourself a few days to relax, your 24 hour flight time buffer, and potentially sign up for some wreck dives (like Thistlegorm) which we totally recommend. They do need minimum 6 people per dive center to go on this trip and it is a higher cost, but worth it in our opinion.
If you’re interested in more scuba diving or kite surfing, Hurgada is also a popular destination.
We’d probably avoid the day boats that have snorkel stops at Ras Mohammad (they don’t, they’re actually not allowed to go into the National Park – so they all raft up on a small reef together) and White Island (a disappearing island that they shove a few hundred people on during low tide) – BUT, that’s just our opinion and dislike of big tour groups.
We did go ATVing in the desert and added on star gazing + a typical bedouin night with dinner. While they do make you go single file on the ATVs (a little slower than we liked) we loved the dinner and show. You can also add on camel rides.
Farsha Cafe is also an absolute MUST. It’s the vibiest cafe where you can smoke hookah, get drinks, and watch the sunset. Get there about an hour before sunset to make sure you get a spot and stay into the evening to see the lights!
You can also go to the Old Town Market if you’d like affordable trinkets and to see the beautiful new Mosque.
Places to Stay
Hotels in Sharm are interesting – some of them try and have an insane party vibe on a daily and nightly basis but with very little turnout. We stayed at Meraki, which was definitely trying to do this…and while it wasn’t totally our cup of tea, it was stunning and for all inclusive a great deal and we enjoyed the food – they have a sliver of beach, 3 pools and 7 restaurants. Rixos has a similar vibe as well as a golf course. Other popular non-party resorts that people we met, and loved, include the Four Seasons (super affordable as it’s Egypt) and Savoy.
Itinerary
Days 1-2
You’ll likely fly into Cairo, so you’ll start your journey here. You don’t need to spend more than 2 full days in Cairo – spend one touring the Pyramids and surrounding complexes in Giza, and another in the city side of Cairo.
Days 3-5
Luxor – we loved it here. We’d spend a minimum 3 full days here to see all of the sites.
Days 6-10
If you’re going to go on a river cruise, this would be the best time to do it! The cruises can go longer than 4 days but keep in mind longer than that is visiting a lot of archaeological sites.
Days 10 and on
Finish up your Egypt trip at a beach town on the Red Sea. Sharm el Sheikh, Dahab, Hurgada, and Marsa Alam are all beautiful with their own benefits. Being by the beach is the perfect way to relax after lots of touring. If you want to visit one more spot, you’ll likely need to fly through Cairo anyway – from there you could visit Alexandria for more cityscapes or Siwa Oasis for desert vibes and salt pools.