ITALY

THINGS TO DO 

Ercalano: Ercalano (Herculaneum in English) is a second city that was both destroyed and preserved by the eruption of Vesuvius. Ercalano was the beach-town where the Roman elite vacationed and is ideal for those who are wanting to spend less time at ruins than Pompeii but still get a feel for life in the first-century AD. 

Ferry to Capri: Want to go to Capri without paying the hefty hotel fees? Hop on the ferry in the port of Naples and ride the 30 minute ferry to Capri — the earlier you go, the better chances you have of beating the crowds or the ferry selling out and having to wait for the next ride. 

Hiking Mt. Vesuvius: Pay 10 euro to hike the volcano that extinguished Pompeii and is still active today. Park at the base, take a shuttle or walk 30 minutes to the entrance, and hike the rest of the way up for panoramic views of the Neapolitan coast with Capri in the distance. 

Pompeii: Take a taxi, shuttle, or the metro out to Pompeii to see the ruined city preserved by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Say no to the tour companies offering guides and download Rick Steve’s Pompeii Walking Tour Podcast/Audio Guide — he and the tour companies stop at the exact same stops in Pompeii and have identical scripts + his podcast is free!

Pozzuoli: Take the Cumana (metro line) out to Pozzuoli and walk along the lungomare, the Italian version of a boardwalk. This coast-town is about as local as it gets, with gelato shops, cafés, and pizza restaurants all along the waterfront. Rent a beach chair for 5 euro along the water and call it a day. If you’re feeling up for an extra journey, head into Pozzuoli’s port, buy a ferry ticket to Procida, and hop on the ferry. In 30 minutes you will be on Procida, a small island with stunning views that rival the Amalfi Coast’s – but with only 10% of the crowd. 

Royal Palace of Caserta: A massive palace and gardens – think Versailles without the massive crowds. The palace was built in the 18th century by the Bourbon kings who spared no expense — they even built miles of aqueducts to have their own faux waterfall, which still runs today. Pack a bottle of wine and cheese to picnic in the gardens while taking in the luxury. 

Teatro di San Carlo: Check the schedule online and try to get tickets to an authentic Italian ballet or opera. The Teatro di San Carlo is the oldest continuously-used theater in the world, and the gold plated walls, red velvet curtains, and views of the king’s personal box are a show in and of themselves.

PLACES TO EAT

Concettina ai Tre Santi: Neapolitans will argue that this is the best pizza in town — made of only fresh, local ingredients. Stick to ordering the traditional magherita pizza and enjoy the sweet tomato sauce mixed with perfectly-cooked, gooey dough that melts in your mouth.

L’Ebbrezza di Noe: If you love wine, L’Ebbrezza di Noe (the aberration of Noah) is a must visit. A restaurant located inside of a wine store, L’Ebbrezza has decadent food that is locally sourced and perfectly matched with the extensive wine selections. Bonus — if you like the wine you had for dinner, you can buy the same bottle straight off the shelves behind your table. 

Pizzeria Brandi: Naples is known as the birthplace of pizza, and Pizzeria Brandi is right up there with the best of serving traditional, Neapolitan pizza. Order the diavola (Italian version of pepperoni) or the magherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella di buffalo, and basil) and enjoy the entire pizza to yourself. Tip – Neapolians do not eat pizza with their hands so pick up your fork and knife and dig in. 

PLACES TO DRINK

Café Gambrinus: One of the oldest cafes in Naples, Café Gambrinus is where the intellectuals used to chat over their cafes. Order a café at the counter, grab a coveted covered seat on the front patio in the heart of Naples and people watch as you sip your drink.

Spazio Nea: A cozy café combined with an art gallery in a more contemporary atmosphere than traditional Naples. Sip inside or sit in their courtyard near the 17thcentury grand staircase. 

TRANSPORTATION

From the airport, you can grab a taxi or hop on the Alibus, a bus that makes two stops — the first at the Napoli Centrale train station and the second in the port — and costs 5 euro per person for a one-way trip. 

 Naples, as a city, is very walkable. If you are heading out to Pozzuoli or other smaller towns, hop on the Cumana (it can run late but you don’t have to buy a ticket so take what you can get). 

To get to Pompeii or Vesuvius, you can take the train, hire a taxi, or pay for a shuttle bus service. Think long and hard before deciding to rent a car as most cars are stick shift, gas is around $9.00 a gallon, and Neapolitans are known for their fast, reckless driving (stop signs + lights are optional). 

To get to Capri, head to the port and look for the ferry signs.

TIPS

Neapolitans are known for being very Italian — picture few people who speak English, fast driving, slow lifestyle, chain-smoking cigarettes, and throwing back espressos every hour. If you want an authentic Italian experience, Naples is the place to visit.

Pick pocketing and petty theft is rampant in Naples, especially in the Napoli Centrale train station, on the alibus, and the metro. Zip up your phone and wallet and do not fall for scams (people dropping umbrellas, tripping or falling, asking for directions, etc.). Kids, grandparents, teenagers, men dressed nicely — anyone can scam you so just be vigilant. 

You don’t need to tip at any restaurant. Neapolitans will try to take advantage of you being a tourist and will tell you tip is not included — even if they say this, do not tip. It is not expected, and no Italian will ever tip.

Expect to pay more if you pay with a card. Neapolitans like to be “off the grid” when it comes to their business — aka, they don’t like paying taxes. In smaller shops or restaurants if you pay with a card the price may go up because they will have to pay taxes, so always have cash on hand.